Vietnamese chard rolls with your choice of protein and hoisin sauce

Bring a medium sauce pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Fill a medium bowl with ice water.

• Remove the thick stems from 6 [12] of the largest chard leaves, keeping the stems within the leaves intact. Finely chop the remaining chard leaves and stems; set aside for the filling.

To the pot of boiling water, add the large chard leaves and cook until the leaves are bright green and the stems are just flexible, about 30 seconds. Drain the chard leaves and transfer to the ice water to cool, then drain again and pat dry with paper towels. 

• Trim the root ends from the scallions; thinly slice the scallions, keeping the white and green parts separate. Set aside the green parts for the hoisin sauce. 
• Cut a small corner from the ground meat packaging and drain off any excess liquid. Transfer to a plate; pat dry with a paper towel. 

In a large frying pan over medium-high heat, warm 1 to 2 tablespoons oil until hot but not smoking. Add the meat, white parts of the scallions, and finely chopped chard leaves and stems. Cook, stirring to break up the meat, until browned and cooked through and the chard stems are softened, 5 to 7 minutes. 

Remove from the heat, stir in the nuoc cham base, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, prepare the remaining ingredients.

• Peel the cucumber, if desired; cut the cucumber into ¼-inch-thick matchsticks.

In a small bowl, stir together the hoisin sauce base and 2 tablespoons [¼ cup] water. Garnish with the green parts of the scallions. 

Lay the chard leaves flat. Place the filling in the middle of the leaves, dividing it evenly. Top with the cucumber, carrots, and cilantro sprigs. Roll up each leaf tightly; secure with a toothpick, if desired.

Transfer the chard spring rolls to individual plates. Serve the hoisin sauce on the side, spooning the sauce on the rolls with each bite.