• Trim the ends from the delicata squash. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a spoon, then cut each half crosswise into ¼-inch-thick half-moons.

In a wok or large frying pan over medium-high heat, warm 1 to 2 tablespoons oil until hot but not smoking. Working in batches if needed, add the squash in a single layer, season with salt and pepper, and cook, undisturbed, until starting to brown and soften, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn and cook until lightly browned and tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate and cover to keep warm. Add more oil between batches if needed. Do not clean the pan. While the squash is cooking, prepare your protein.

• Chicken, steak, or pork strips: Cut a small corner from the packaging and drain off any excess liquid. Transfer the meat to a plate; pat dry with a paper towel. Season with salt and pepper.
• Shrimp or scallops: Rinse and drain the shrimp or scallops. Pat dry on a paper-towel-lined plate. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
• Tofu: Pat the tofu dry with paper towels; crumble or cut it into ½-inch pieces. Season with salt and pepper.  
• Plant-based chicken: Pat the plant-based chicken dry with a paper towel; season with salt and pepper.

In the same pan used for the squash, warm 1 to 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add your protein and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and cooked through, 2 to 4 minutes for regular shrimp; 4 to 6 minutes for jumbo shrimp, scallops, steak, pork, tofu, or plant-based chicken; and 6 to 8 minutes for chicken. Transfer to a plate. Do not clean the pan. While your protein is cooking, prepare the remaining ingredients.

• Peel the onion and cut it into 1-inch pieces. 
• Grate or peel and finely chop the ginger. 
• Cut away any core from the cabbage; coarsely chop the cabbage.
• In a small bowl, stir or whisk together the char siu sauce base, 1 tablespoon [2 TBL] water, and half the rice vinegar. Set aside the remaining vinegar for finishing the stir-fry.
• If using the jalapeño, remove the stem and thinly slice the jalapeño crosswise into rings. Wash your hands after handling.

In the same pan used for your protein, if dry, add 1 to 2 teaspoons oil. Warm over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the onion, ginger, and as much jalapeño and dried chiles as you like and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and the onion and jalapeño start to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the cabbage and cook, stirring occasionally, until starting to soften and brown, 2 to 3 minutes. 

Stir in your protein and any accumulated juices and the char sui sauce, toss to combine, and cook until the ingredients are evenly coated and heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and discard the dried chiles, if using. Season to taste with salt and pepper and the remaining rice vinegar. 

Transfer the squash to individual plates, top with the stir-fry, and serve.