• If using the fresh chile, remove the stem, ribs, and seeds from the chile; finely chop the chile. Wash your hands after handling.

In a small bowl, stir together the umami sauce base and as much fresh chile as you like. Set aside.

• Grate the ginger or peel and thinly slice into matchsticks.
• Thinly slice the garlic.
• Peel the onion and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices.
• Scrub or peel the sweet potato. Trim the ends and cut the potato in half lengthwise. Cut each half lengthwise into ½-inch-thick slices, the slices crosswise into ½-inch cubes.
• Strip the kale leaves from the stems; coarsely chop the leaves.

For the fish (sole or halibut):

• Pat the fish dry with a paper towel; season lightly with salt and pepper.

In a large frying pan over medium-high heat, warm 1 to 2 tablespoons [2 to 3 TBL] oil until hot but not smoking. Working in batches if needed, add the fish, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, turning once, until the fish is cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side for sole and 3 to 5 minutes per side for halibut. Transfer to a plate. Add more oil between batches if needed. Do not clean the pan.

For the scallops:

• Pat the scallops dry with a paper towel; season lightly with salt.

In a large frying pan over high heat, warm 2 to 3 teaspoons oil until hot but not smoking. Working in batches if needed, add the scallops and cook without turning until golden brown on one side and starting to turn opaque, 2 to 4 minutes. Turn and continue cooking for about 30 seconds for translucent or 1 to 2 minutes for opaque. Transfer to a plate. Add more oil between batches if needed. Do not clean the pan.

In the same pan used for the seafood, if dry, add 1 to 2 teaspoons oil. Warm over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the ginger and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Wipe out the pan.

In a wok or another large frying pan over medium-high heat, warm 1 to 2 tablespoons oil until hot but not smoking. Stir in the onion and cook until starting to soften, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the sweet potato and five-spice powder and cook, stirring occasionally, until the potato is just tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Working in batches if needed, stir in the kale and cook until just wilted, 1 to 2 minutes.

In the same pan used for the seafood and ginger-garlic garnish, stir in the chile sauce and heat over medium heat until warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes.

Transfer the seafood to individual plates, top with the ginger-garlic garnish, and pour the chile sauce over the seafood. Serve the sweet potato and kale alongside.