Recados: The spice blends of the Yucatan
The brilliantly colored spice blends known as recados are the backbone of Yucatecan cuisine, as important to cooks there as the mother sauces are to the French. According to David Sterling, author of the authoritative Yucatãn: A Culinary Journey, it’s rare for any savory dish not to include one of these blends. They are used in tamales, as rubs for grilled meats, and stirred into long-simmering stews.
Only the most hardcore DIY cooks make their own recados. The ones sold in the markets here are typically made in small quantities by local artisans and have enough character and quality to satisfy even the most exacting chef.
Some recados are powders, others are pastes blended with vinegar. Typical ingredients include dried chiles, pepitas (squash seeds), achiote, dried herbs such as oregano, and spices including peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon, and coriander. If you want to better understand the power of these blends, try this week’s Globetrotter meal. Chef Justine has created her own recado for the marinade in our Yucatan-style salmon with capers and tomatoes.
Yucatecan cooking: Don’t call it Mexican.
People on the Yucatán Peninsula, the peninsula that separates the Gulf of Mexico from the Caribbean, will be quick to tell you that they are Yucatecan, not Mexican; their food also has a flavor very different from what’s found elsewhere in the country. The region’s dense jungles yield wild rabbits, turkeys, and quail, the primary sources of protein, along with fish from the Gulf Coast. The influence of the early Maya is very much alive here: many popular dishes, such as sikil p’aak and cháamchamitos (a kind of tamal) still go by their Mayan names.
Crops like corn, squash, beans, cacao, and vanilla, which form the foundation of Mayan cuisine, were grown here long before the first Europeans arrived. Yet despite their staunch regionalism, Yucatecan cooks have still absorbed culinary influences from the Spanish, Dutch, and Lebanese (who emigrated to Mexico in large numbers in the years that preceded World War I). The Yucatecan larder is incredibly diverse, reflecting the region’s rich history. Here are a handful of ingredients that help define this distinctive cuisine.
Achiote
Ancient Maya used these seeds to make brilliant red ink, fabric dye, body paint, and to enrich the color of chukwa’, their sacred chocolate drink. Today achiote is primarily used as a food coloring for tamales, rice, and recado rojo, one of the region’s signature spice blends.
Habanero Chile
Among the hottest chiles in the world, these fiery, fruity peppers are eaten at almost every Yucatecan meal. No authentic Yucatán table is complete without a version of habanero salsa.
Mamey Sapote
These fruits have fuzzy brown skin and a vivid coral-colored flesh. Soft and sweet, their flavor is somewhere between a peach and a cantaloupe. They’re pureed into drinks and used in a wide range of sweets, including milkshakes, smoothies, and ice cream.
Pepitas (pumpkin seeds)
Squash seeds are as important to Yucatecan cooks as the squash itself. They appear in savory sauces and desserts and are the main ingredient in the Mayan pumpkin seed salsa known as sikil p’aak.
Sour Oranges
The Spanish brought these bitter fruits to the region in the 1500s, and they quickly became a staple. Also known as Seville oranges, they’re used in many salsas and to season the grilled pork cutlets known as poc chuc, one of the Yucatán’s most famous dishes. Because of their bright acidity, sour oranges are used like vinegar to both brighten a dish and for its preservative qualities.
A User’s Guide to Yuca
Yuca may be new to you, but it’s one of the most widely consumed carbohydrates in the world, ranking third just after rice and corn in terms of its popularity. It’s rich in nutrients including magnesium, potassium, calcium, vitamin C, and various B vitamins, and is one of the few carbohydrates approved for paleo diets. Across South and Central America, tropical regions of Africa, Southeast Asia, and Southern India, the gnarly root is a staple that goes by many names—singkong in Bangalore, mihogo in Mozambique, kappa in Chennai. In Brazil, it’s known as mandioca, and this week we’re offering it as an accompaniment to our Grilled Chicken and Summer Vegetables with Yuca Mash and Chimichurri.
Yuca (never yucca, which is an unrelated ornamental plant) can look intimidating, but it’s simple to prepare and has a surprisingly delicious nutty flavor. Peeling the root can be messy. It typically comes with a wax coating (something one unsuspecting cook we know learned the hard way when she tried to roast a whole yuca with the peel intact.) The one thing that you do need to keep in mind is that yuca is a pure starch and should be treated with a light touch. Go gently when you mash it. It should be coarse, not baby-food smooth. Watch our video to see how it’s done.
Pumpkin Seed Salsa (sikil p’aak) Recipe
If you’re accustomed to serving guacamole every time you open a bag of chips, try this blend of pumpkin seeds and tomatoes instead. This unusual, delicious spread has its roots in the ancient Yucatecan kitchen. (The name sikil p’aak—pronounced “sickle pack”—is Mayan, not Spanish.) Tahini isn’t a traditional ingredient, but we like the flavor and creamy texture it adds. Let the sikil p’aak sit at least 30 minutes before serving to let the flavors mellow. It can be refrigerated for up to 3 days, but it’s best served shortly after it’s made.
Sikil P’aak Recipe
Makes about 3 cups
Shopping List
1 organic white onion
Olive oil, optional
Small bunch organic fresh cilantro
1¾ cups unsalted roasted pumpkin seeds
5 ounces organic fresh tomatoes, chopped, or 5 ounces drained canned fire-roasted tomatoes (preferably no salt added)
¼ cup organic fresh orange juice
⅓ cup organic fresh lime juice
3 tablespoons tahini
3 teaspoons habanero chile hot sauce (or 1 fresh habanero chile, stemmed, seeded, and chopped)
1½ teaspoon kosher salt
Fresh tortilla chips, or raw vegetables, such as jicama or cucumbers, for serving
1. Prep the onion and cilantro
- Peel and halve the onion.
- Wash and dry the cilantro.
On the stove top directly over a flame, char the onion until slightly blackened, 3 to 5 minutes. Alternatively, put the onion on a sheet pan, drizzle with oil, and roast in a 450ºF oven until slightly blackened, 18 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
Let the onion cool and coarsely chop.
2. Puree the salsa
In a blender or food processor, combine the onion, pumpkin seeds, tomatoes, orange juice, lime juice, tahini, hot sauce or chile, cilantro, and salt and process to a slightly chunky puree.
Serve
Transfer to a serving bowl and serve with fresh tortilla chips or raw vegetables, such as jicama or cucumbers.
Nutrition per serving: Calories: 130, Protein: 6g (12% DV), Fiber: 2g (8% DV), Total Fat: 10g (15% DV), Monounsaturated Fat: 3.5g, Polyunsaturated Fat: 4.5g, Saturated Fat: 2g (10% DV), Cholesterol: 0mg (0% DV), Sodium: 280mg (12% DV), Carbohydrates: 6g (2% DV), Total Sugars: 2g, Added Sugars: 0g (0% DV). Not a significant source of trans fat.
Bonus Recipe. Ingredients not included in box.
The Great Maya Chewing Gum Bubble
The early Maya chewed chicle (pronounced cheek-lay), a latex extract from the sapodilla tree, to care for their teeth and ward off hunger, helpful while building massive stone monuments. Chicle was also used as a craft glue and building material (but that’s another story). Though the ancient Maya mysteriously disappeared from their cities around 880 CE, chicle lives on, sparking a 20th-century chewing gum empire and the 21st-century resurgence of organic craft chewing gum.
At the end of the 19th century, William Wrigley Jr. helped Americans develop a taste for chicle with his famous brand. The Chicago businessman began an aggressive marketing campaign, which included sending his gum to all the addresses listed in the phone books for every state. The success of that effort created a bull market for the Yucatecan chicle trade. The Maya people used the profits from the sale of chicle to fund their revolution against the Mexican government. The chicleros, who harvested the resin, enjoyed a boost to their fortunes brought on by this golden age of chewing gum.
The tale took a familiar turn when demand outstripped the chicle supply. Though it’s recommended that the trees rest for five to eight years between harvests, in order to satisfy the booming gum market, extractors overtapped the forests. By 1930, at least a quarter of Mexico’s sapodilla trees were gone. Chewing gum manufacturers turned to synthetic bases, and the chicle bubble burst.
Fast-forward to the modern day, when demand for artisan products extends even to candy. A handful of producers, including Glee Gum and Chicza, are buying chicle from the Yucatan, working with native communities to sustainably harvest the trees, and making certain that the Maya’s sweetest contribution sticks around for a long time to come.
Thailand: Tropical Beaches, Vibrant Cities, and Incredible Food
The food of Thailand embraces all the essential tastes—sweet, salty, sour, spicy, and umami—as often as not in a single bowl. Rather than combining ingredients to create a single taste, Thai cooks aim to make each element stand on its own.
The country is divided into four distinct regions, each with its own cuisine.
Northern Thailand
A temperate climate and strong foreign influence have left their mark on the food of the country’s northernmost region. The food here is less spicy than that in other regions of Thailand and rarely uses coconut milk.
Key ingredients—fresh turmeric, tamarind, sticky rice
Northeastern Thailand
Also known as Isaan, this region of the country is marked by harsh climate (monsoons, scorching heat, and drought). Food is scarce and the cooking is rustic. Meals are built around sticky rice and saucy, spicy dishes.
Key ingredients—Small dried red chiles
Central Thailand
This is the most populous region of the country and not surprisingly the most influential. The food here tends to be more refined than in other parts of the country. The fertile Chao Phraya River delta is one of Thailand’s top agricultural regions and much of the country’s produce comes from here as well as seafood from the nearby gulf of Thailand.
Key ingredients—Shrimp, fish, crabs, jasmine rice
Southern Thailand
The tail end of the country is a region rich in coconuts, seafood, and fruits like tamarind and pineapple. The food here tends to be very spicy.
Key ingredients—coconut curries, fish, shrimp paste
Lime Curry Cashews
Curry paste is a go-to item in our pantry and we make sure to always have some on hand. Stir it into yogurt for an easy marinade or combine it with coconut milk for a delicious soup base that couldn’t be quicker to make. Here we’ve used it to add a kick to these irresistible cashews.
Lime Curry Cashews Recipe
Makes 2 cups
Serves 8
Shopping List
1 lime
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon vegan green curry paste
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon cayenne
2 cups raw cashews
Tools
Fine-toothed grater, medium bowl, sheet pan
1 Prep and roast the nuts
- Heat the oven to 350ºF.
- Zest and juice the lime, keeping the zest and juice separate.
In a medium bowl, stir together the olive oil, sugar, curry paste, salt, cayenne, and 1 teaspoon lime juice. Add the cashews and stir to coat. On a sheet pan, spread the cashews in an even layer and bake, stirring the cashews and rotating the pan a few times, until lightly browned, 15 to 17 minutes.
Remove the sheet pan from the oven and sprinkle the roasted cashews with the lime zest. Let cool completely, 15 to 30 minutes.
2 Serve
Transfer the cashews to a bowl and enjoy at once, or store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Nutrition per serving: Calories: 210, Protein: 5g (10% DV), Fiber: 1g (4% DV), Total Fat: 17g (26% DV), Monounsaturated Fat: 10g, Polyunsaturated Fat: 3g, Saturated Fat: 3.5g (18% DV), Cholesterol: 0mg (0% DV), Sodium: 160mg (7% DV), Carbohydrates: 13g (4% DV), Total Sugars: 2g, Added Sugars (sugar): 0g (0% DV). Not a significant source of trans fat.
Bonus recipe—ingredients not included in box.
Paleo Thai Iced Tea Recipe
We gave Thai iced tea the Sun Basket treatment and swapped in paleo-friendly coconut milk for the traditional sweetened condensed milk. Call us biased, but we like it even better than the original version. This recipe makes eight 6-oz portions of sweet and nutty Thai tea. Don’t toss the steeped tea leaves, they’ll be good for at least one more pot. For a Southeast-Asian-themed meal, pair the tea with this week’s Lemongrass-Tofu Lettuce Cups with Cucumber Salad and Rice Noodles or Southeast Asian Chicken Salad with Sesame-Lime Dressing.
Thai Iced Tea Recipe
Serves 8
- 1 quart water
- ¼ cup loose Ceylon tea (or 4 tea bags)
- 5 ounces coconut milk
- 3 ounces honey
- Ice
In a pot or tea kettle, bring the water to a boil. Set the tea in a medium heatproof bowl. Pour the hot water over the tea and steep for 5 minutes. Strain. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the coconut milk and honey, stirring to dissolve the honey. Fill 8 glasses with ice. Pour ½ cup hot tea into each glass. Top with 2 tablespoons of the coconut milk mixture. Stir well and serve.
The Top 4 Thai Cookbooks Every Home Cook Should Own
Thai Food
David Thompson
Australian scholar David Thompson’s encyclopedic Thai Food became an instant bible on its release in 2002. Though he is rigorous about his research, in his recipes he suggests many user-friendly substitutions and shortcuts that won’t sacrifice authenticity or flavor.
Thai Street Food
David Thompson
Following the success of Thai Food, in 2010, David Thompson published this gorgeously photographed ode to Thailand’s street food hawkers.
Pok Pok
Andy Ricker
In 2005, Andy Ricker was a self-taught cook with an obsession for Thai flavors when he opened his takeout shack in Portland, Oregon. Ten years later, Pok Pok is a restaurant empire with outposts in LA and New York … and this award-winning cookbook. Ricker’s recipes are fiercely authentic: He eloquently argues against just about any ingredient substitution. But the book has rightfully won a cult following for its rigor and writing, helped by co-author JJ Goode.
Hot Sour Salty Sweet: A Culinary Journey Through Southeast Asia
Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid
Alford and Duguid are food travel writers admired for their ability to get to a region’s core. Following the Mekong River through southern China, Burma, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam, they distilled Southeast Asian cooking to its most delicious elements.
The Essential Thai Kitchen Tool: A Granite Mortar and Pestle
Ask a Thai chef what tool she values most and prepare for an ode to the granite mortar and pestle. When it comes to making a paste of lemongrass or crushing chiles for curry, this Stone Age appliance has no modern rival. Pull out your food processor if speed is what you’re after, but to make dishes with the intensity and nuance of traditional Thai cuisine, nothing beats a couple of rocks.
The steady rhythm of a pestle incorporates far less air into a paste than a whirling metal blade. Granite also doesn’t heat up the way a food processor can. By crushing rather than cutting ingredients, the stones release the ingredients’ aromatic oils without agitating the harsh sulfur molecules that can give foods like onions and garlic an acrid flavor. An herb sauce pounded by hand will be denser and have more character than one made with a machine.
The best granite mortars and pestles, carved from a single piece of rock, are very difficult to chip or crack. They’re a good value too. A standard seven-inch version with a two-cup capacity can be less than forty dollars and will last for decades.
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