Behind the albacore: A visit with Fishpeople’s Lars Holmdahl
Lars Holmdahl got hooked on fishing (pun intended) when he was eight years old and caught a cod off a pier in Sweden. Today, he captains his own boat, the Virginia Anne, and sells his catch to our supplier, Fishpeople. Every summer, Holmdahl and his two daughters, Inga (pictured) and Annalee, fish the ocean waters from Vancouver Island in British Columbia to California in search of Pacific albacore. The mild-tasting, firm-fleshed tuna is featured in this week’s Seared albacore with green beans and slow-cooked eggs.
Here at Sun Basket, we love tuna, but it’s been in the news in ways that make us uncomfortable. Mercury is one issue that concerns us. Why is Fishpeople’s albacore a good choice?
Mercury is an issue with all big fish. The longer a fish lives, the more time it has to take in dangerous chemicals. We target albacore that weigh between 10 and 35 pounds. These juveniles have the lowest mercury levels of any variety of tuna.
We’ve heard that albacore is overfished and that stocks are running low. Is this true? What steps do you take on your boat to ensure that healthy numbers of albacore remain for years to come?
In fact, Pacific albacore stocks are very healthy. We’re a jig fishery, which means that we catch one fish at a time. Unlike other methods, such as purse seines, which bring up a lot of bycatch, we only bring in fish that we can sell. We throw back any tuna that weigh less than nine pounds.
Tell us a little about living the fisherman’s life on the Virginia Anne.
The albacore season generally runs from July through early October, though this year it started in June. The season ends when the fish move on, or the weather gets too rough.
We typically go out for two or three weeks at a time. But if we run into bad weather, we head back early. We typically travel from 30 to 150 miles from the coast, and find most of our fish between 60 and 90 miles offshore. Our boat is small, with a limited capacity, so once our holds are full, we have to turn back. I always have enough fuel to last for 40 days, but in over seven years, we’ve never been out for longer than 25 days.
We start fishing at first light and keep going until it gets dark. The only thing that changes is the weather and the number of fish we catch.
Any cooking tips you can share?
Like Sun Basket’s Chef Justine, my favorite way to cook albacore is to give it a quick sear in a hot pan so that it’s still rare in the middle. And or course, I love it raw, but I go to a good sushi restaurant for that.
Order Sun Basket’s ready-to-cook Thanksgiving side dishes today
Bring Sun Basket to your holiday table this Thanksgiving 2016 with three festive vegetable side dishes. We’ve updated classic recipes to be healthy, delicious, and easy to make. For the same price as a weekly meal, you can choose 1, 2, or 3 sides as part of your order, along with (or in place of) your regular recipes. It’s the best of all worlds: the flavors you love, fresh and nutritious ingredients, easy to prepare, all delivered to your door.
Sides Offered (8-10 servings each for the 2-person plan; 16-20 servings each for the 4-person plan):
Kale and leek gratin with gruyère
With its cheesy sauce and crunchy bread crumb topping, this gratin is, at its essence, mac n’ cheese with kale and leeks instead of pasta.
Brussels sprouts with delicata squash, currants, and hazelnuts
We love the contrast of textures, colors, and flavors in this nourishing side dish. It’s easy to make ahead so you can enjoy more time with family and friends.
Williams-Sonoma Italian sausage and apple stuffing
Old-school cooks would call this stuffing a “dressing,” since it’s cooked on its own, not inside the bird. Whatever you choose to call it, it will be the first empty dish on the table; the classic mix of pork sausage and apples will win over everyone.
Market Report: Hardy Greens
Just as we start taking summer produce for granted, our farmers switch it up and send us kale instead. As the temperatures keep dropping, these hardy greens only grow sweeter. Our chefs have been busy developing recipes with all the delicious winter greens coming our way. We couldn’t be more delighted. Sun Basket’s staff dietitian Kaley Todd is pretty happy, too. These nutrient-dense greens are some of her favorites:
Arugula
This peppery Mediterranean weed delivers a whole lot of goodness with very few calories. It’s a source of vitamins A, C, and K, and—like other winter greens—may reduce the risk of cancer. It’s got a lively flavor that we love to pair with steaks and other rich foods. The tender leaves thrive in cool temperatures, so look for plenty of arugula in weeks ahead. Chef Justine likes to stir it into soups and pasta sauces.
Bok Choy
This Asian green and its relatives, Napa cabbage and tatsoi, all stem from the same species of turnip. Bok choy is a rich source of beta-carotene; it also delivers a whopping dose of vitamin K, which protects against diabetes, heart disease, and osteoporosis. But we like it for its sweet flavor and its versatility. Look for it in stir-fries, simply seared as a side dish to grilled meats, and served up raw in a delicious slaw.
Chard
Like beets and spinach (it’s related to both), chard ranks near the top of the list of the most nutrient-dense vegetables, with special benefits for controlling blood sugar and supporting the nervous system. Chard’s flavor is sweeter than other winter greens (we’re looking at you, kale). The sturdy leaves hold up well to heat and have a supple, voluptuous texture.
Kale
The trendiest of winter greens comes by its popularity honestly. It’s delicious and versatile (salads, stir-fries, smoothies, sautés—is there anything kale can’t do?). Like the other greens on this list, it’s a darling of nutritionists. We love its slightly bitter flavor and beefy minerality.
Sun Signs
SCORPIO (Oct 23-Nov 21) Pay attention to your dreams. You may be craving spiritual renewal; deepening your connection with the things you cannot see might actually prove fruitful or, at the very least, pleasant. With buzz-kill Saturn in your house of money, you may have had to tighten your belt at bit, but remember, the real gold is in your inner life. You’re the one in power. You might want to skip the festivities and sleep on Thanksgiving. If you do decide to attend the holiday dinner, be the first to offer to do the dishes. You’ll make your host happy and avoid any heavy discussions.
SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22-Dec 21) With taskmaster Saturn in your house of self-identity, your sense of freedom may seem restricted. In fact, you’re laying the groundwork for a whole new you. This can be exhausting, so pay attention to your body–eat right and exercise. Expansive planet Jupiter is in your house of friends, so on Thanksgiving, go ahead and get together with all your people; that’s what will make you happy. Just don’t bring up how you pay the bills or how they do, either, for fear anyone thinks you might have ulterior motives. Besides, talking about money is considered unbecoming in some circles, and you’re attracting a more refined set these days.
CAPRICORN (Dec 22-Jan 19) It’s pantsuit-power time. You don’t have to run for president to know that the big transformation you’ve been going through is finally bringing the career recognition you crave. You may have had some losses recently; but don’t worry, it’s just the universe’s way of telling you you didn’t need those things anyway. It’s time to own your authority. Just wield it wisely and not with an iron fist. You’ll probably want to invite all your business associates to Thanksgiving this year. It might look like Davos, but isn’t that what you’re going for?
AQUARIUS (Jan 20-Feb 18) Maybe it feels like all your fellow freaks are pulling down their flags. The stars may be telling you: leave those old friends behind. Buy a plane ticket and take a long-distance trip. You’re more likely to find your people further afield. With Mars, the planet of physical energy and initiative, in your first house, you’re on fire. You may want to spend Thanksgiving in a foreign country—or with people from another culture, and skip the American holiday altogether.
PISCES (Feb 19-Mar 20) You’re at a career peak, finally being recognized for all you’ve accomplished. With expansive Jupiter in your house of resources, and other people’s money, now is the time to get financial backing for the work you do. But do your research, and make sure the partners you’re attracting are transforming and not corrupting. You’re finding yourself through your relationships and professional standing. This is the time to take charge. On Thanksgiving, don’t let things get too intense, and you’ll avoid stirring up any hidden anger that might get you into trouble.
ARIES (Mar 21-April 19) You just got a boost from the universe in the partnership department. If you’re not in a relationship, the force is with you to couple up. Spend Thanksgiving with your significant other, but keep the conversation focused on the food and company. Avoid potential landmines like religion, philosophy, or even work, as things might get too heated and alienate your friends.
TAURUS (April 20-May 20) We know how much you like your creature comforts, but the tendency to overindulge is greater than usual right now. Instead, turn your enthusiasm for the good life toward improving your diet and exercise regime. Thanksgiving will be a test of your resolve. Remember, less truly is more, and if you focus on the company and all the richness in your life, you’ll stay on track.
GEMINI (May 21-June 20) With beneficial Jupiter in your house of creativity, romance and pleasure, plus big—fat—love, are all in the air for the twins. Don’t be surprised if that new romance turns out to have long-term potential. You may want to lay low on Thanksgiving. Don’t drink too much, or you might find yourself in a compromising situation. Geminis are good at keeping it light. You really don’t want to uncover anybody’s family secrets or skeletons in the closet.
CANCER (June 21-July 22) With taskmaster Saturn in your health house, November is not the time to be self-indulgent. Instead, put in the work to build a sustainable health routine. With expansive Jupiter in your house of home and roots, maybe you’re thinking about moving into a better place or improving the one you have. Your home is the perfect place to host family and friends this month; that’s where you’ll find the finer things are meant to be shared.
LEO (July 23-Aug 22) You love to be the center of attention, but wet-blanket Saturn in your house of creativity has put a damper on your self-expression, not to mention your sense of fun. With jolly Jupiter in your house of communications, you’re poised to host some positively civilized gatherings. Let everyone come to you; if not everyone can make it, don’t get bent out of shape. Gather your neighbors and siblings for Thanksgiving, and you might just have the makings of the best party ever.
VIRGO (Aug 23-Sept 22) If you don’t have a steady gig, you’re ripe to find one soon. You may find that working in partnerships can be good for your growth and earning potential right now. Learning more about your roots, and where and who you come from, is one way of easing the pressure you may have been feeling on the home front.
LIBRA (Sept 23-Oct 22) You’re coming off larger-than-life, but in a balanced, appealing way. The attention you’re attracting is good for both business and the bottom line. Even though you’ve gotten good press lately, don’t believe the hype. Be careful not to eat, drink, or sleep too much, as you may have a tendency to put on weight. At Thanksgiving, why not travel? It’s one way to avoid family drama, or of unearthing any old stuff that could upset all that balance and togetherness Libras crave.
Red Lentil Curry Dip with Chard and Naan
Just because we send you a recipe doesn’t mean you have to follow it. As Julia Child famously said, “You’re alone in the kitchen.” The ingredients we send are yours to explore. Say you order our Red Lentil Curry this week, but now you need an appetizer for a dinner party. You can hack your basket and—using the same ingredients—make a party-ready spread complete with naan and carrot sticks for dipping.
Do you ever go “off recipe” with your Sun Basket? We’d love to hear about your favorite hacks. Share them on Instagram with the hashtag #sunbaskethack
Red Lentil Curry Dip with Chard and Naan Basket Hack
Ingredients
1 cup chickpeas
1 bunch chard
Olive oil
¾ cup red lentils
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon granulated garlic
½ teaspoon Marash chile flakes, (optional)
1 cup diced tomatoes
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 red onion
1 to 2 carrots
Fresh dill
1 piece naan bread
Tools
Food processor or blender, strainer, medium sauce pot, medium frying pan, optional
Instructions
1 Prep the chickpeas and chard
- Rinse the chickpeas.
- Strip the chard leaves from the stems; coarsely chop the leaves.
2 Cook the lentils
In a medium pot, warm 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the lentils, coriander, ginger, turmeric, granulated garlic, and as much Marash chile as you like. Season with salt and pepper, and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the chickpeas, tomatoes, and 2 cups water; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until the lentils are tender, 18 to 20 minutes.
While the lentils cook, prepare the chard leaves.
3 Cook the chard leaves
- Peel and coarsely chop the red onion.
4 Puree the dip
When the lentils are tender, using a slotted spoon, transfer the lentil-tomato mixture to a blender or food processor. Add the reserved onion and ¼ cup of the lentil cooking liquid to a food processor or blender. Blend until smooth, adding more liquid to thin the dip if desired. Season to taste with more salt and pepper, if needed. Transfer to a serving dish.
5 Prep the carrots and dill; toast the naan
- Trim the top from the carrot; cut the carrot in half crosswise, then lengthwise into quarters.
- Coarsely chop the dill.
In a dry pan over medium heat, or in a toaster, toast the naan until browned and slightly crisp but still pliable, 2 to 3 minutes. Tear into 2 pieces.
6 Serve
Garnish the lentil dip with the dill, and serve with chard, naan, and carrot sticks alongside.
Total time range: 30 to 40 minutes
Makes about 3 cups of dip
Oaxacan Holiday—
Oaxacans love a party. As far back as 100 BCE, the Zapotecs gathered at Monte Alban, a complex of pyramids and platforms in the state’s central valley, to celebrate their latest battle victory or give props to Cocijo, the god of rain, and Coquihani, the god of light. Not even the arrival of the Europeans in 1521, who rolled into town with their Christianity and cholera, could dampen the local love of a great celebration. The Oaxacans may have been forced to switch out some of their gods for Cortez’s Catholic saints, but the festivities never stopped. Today, Oaxaca has the largest number of indigenous people in all of Mexico, and it’s estimated that half the state’s population speaks a native language. Ancient traditions die hard when ties to the past are still so strong.
Locals have been celebrating the Guelaguetza since the Zapotecs first started getting down at Monte Alban. What began as a celebration for the corn goddess Centeotl, morphed under Spanish rule to a tribute to the Virgin of Carmen. Today, the party honors them both, with traditional dances, fireworks, and parades.
The more modern Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes) only got going in the late 1800s. For this Christmas tradition, produce vendors carve radishes the way Americans do pumpkins, turning them into elaborate nativity scenes and intricate sculptures depicting saints and animals. Today, farmers grow radishes just for this event, some of them weighing as much as seven pounds.
Celebrate Dia de los Muertos with a Sun Basket Menu
You know that stock question of celebrity quizzes—Name three people, living or dead, who you would most like to invite to dinner? In Oaxaca, they take their answers seriously. Each year on November 1st and 2nd, families head to the cemetery to enjoy a feast with their dearly departed. Dia de los Muertos is one of Oaxaca’s most colorful celebrations. Altars filled with flowers and offerings to the dead spill out of homes and into the streets. And a meal with your favorite people, regardless of whether or not they have a pulse, is the heart of the festivities. Traditional foods include tamales, mole, and a special yeasted bread known as pan de muerto. Everywhere there are brightly colored sugar skulls, tissue paper banners, and paper mâché renderings of the deceased, all to honor those who have passed.
This week, you can celebrate the Day of the Dead Sun Basket-style with healthy Mexican dishes from our menu. Start the morning with our Chipotle Chilaquiles with Black Beans and Fried Eggs to fortify yourself for the day ahead, then serve up bowls of Chicken Pozole with Tomatillos and Green Chiles.
By the Book: The Might of the Iguana and other Oaxacan cooking tales
When you’re looking for a recipe for iguana tamales, you want a reliable source. You can’t just trust your craving for wasp’s nest sauce or pitahaya-flower soup to Google. Instead, we recommend that you turn to Oaxaca Al Gusto, Diana Kennedy’s take-no-prisoners guide to one of Mexico’s most fascinating cuisines.
Considered the foremost authority on Mexican food, Kennedy is unapologetically authentic and this six-pound tome makes no concessions to convenience. So, if you’re in the mood for the dried shrimp tortillas known as gueta binguis and are out of zorrapa, Kennedy suggests that you use asiento instead, but you’ll have to turn to the glossary to discover that the former are crisp bits of fat from the front skin of a pig while the later are the residual crumbs left in the pan after making fried pork rinds.
It’s true that many of the 300 recipes here require serious commitment. Just reading the list of 21 ingredients for mole negro mixteco may make you want to take a nap, but if any cookbook can be called a page-turner, it’s this one. From the detailed instructions for barbecued beef head (with directions for steaming the brains in banana leaves) to descriptions of how to butcher an iguana to make a broth (“cooking times can vary with the age and toughness of the iguana…”), the text makes for absorbing reading for armchair culinary anthropologists. But it would be a mistake to leave Oaxaca al Gusto on the coffee table; plenty of the recipes, like the one for a stewed pumpkin seasoned with cilantro and mint, are more approachable than they appear at first glance. The many salsas, including her grapefruit-orange pico de gallo, are eye-opening in their simplicity.
Grapefruit Orange Pico de Gallo
In her brilliant book, Oaxaca de Gusto, Mexican food authority Diana Kennedy shares a recipe for a delicious and unusual grapefruit salsa. Its simplicity and fresh, bold flavors struck us immediately as a Sun Basket-worthy recipe. Cara cara oranges are a favorite around here, so we added one to the mix. The result is incredibly versatile. We love it on fish, spooned into tacos, and poured over crunchy fresh greens for an easy salad to serve beside a pork chop or tofu steak.
Grapefruit Orange Salsa Recipe
Ingredients:
1 grapefruit
1 Cara Cara orange
1 small shallot
1 scallion
1 peeled clove garlic
¼ to ½ teaspoon chipotle chile powder, optional
1/8 teaspoon Pasilla negro chile powder, optional
Olive oil
Kosher salt
Instructions:
1 Prep the citrus
- Using a knife, and working over a bowl, cut away the peel from the grapefruit and orange, then cut between the membranes to release the segments into the bowl. Discard any seeds. Squeeze the membranes to release any juice.
- Peel and finely chop the shallot.
- Trim the root end from the scallion; thinly slice the white and light green parts of the scallion.
- Finely chop the garlic.
To the bowl with the grapefruit, add the shallot, scallion, garlic, and as much of the chile powders as you like. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil, and mix well to combine. Season to taste with salt.
2 Serve
Serve at once or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 to 4 days.
Cook time: 10 to 15 minutes
Makes about 1½ cups salsa
Nutrition per serving (about 2 Tablespoons): Calories: 30, Protein: 0 g, Total Fat: 1 g, Monounsaturated Fat: 1 g, Polyunsaturated Fat: 0 g, Saturated Fat: 0 g, Cholesterol: 0 mg, Carbohydrates: 4 g, Fiber: 1 g, Added Sugar: 0 g, Sodium: 40 mg
Greek Salad, Deconstructed
Cucumbers
A central ingredient in tzatziki sauce, cucumbers act as a cooling counterpart to meats and other grilled vegetables. In salads, their high water content makes a crunchy, textural bridge between meaty olives and crisp raw onion.
Feta
Made primarily from sheep’s milk, with a touch of goat milk, this firm cheese—sometimes sliceable, sometimes crumbly—is brined in salt water, which accounts for its salty tang.
Kalamata Olives
Unlike most black olives, which are ripened with gas, Kalamatas, by rule, must ripen on the trees, which results in their terrific flavor and texture.
Olive Oil
A true Greek salad should be simply dressed with olive oil, red wine vinegar, salt, and pepper.
Onions
They’ve gotta be red onions, for the balance of bite and sweetness.
Oregano
Greeks tend to put fresh herbs in everything—in tea, in stews, and sprinkled onto salads. Fresh oregano leaves add vibrancy as well as a healthful boost, thanks to their antimicrobial essential oil.
Tomatoes
Some say the salad started as a workday snack of fresh tomato, a chunk of feta, sometimes even a whole raw onion. In Greece, the most prized tomatoes come from the island of Santorini, whose rocky soil is also considered among the best for growing wine grapes.
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